Saturday, June 21, 2008

Jack's home

To my family and friends,
I have made the decision to abandon my travels in Mongolia. In my life I have faced many challenges including climbing Kilimanjaro, living with Chencho amongst the sea turtles in Panama, and my recent semester in Patagonia, but none of these trials compared to the hardships I faced in Mongolia
In many aspects the trip was going very well. Physically I was in good shape. I was averaging over 30 km a day. The man whose home I stayed at in Ulaan Bataar, Bolod, said this was more than most tourists do in a full day of horseback riding. I had completed the first of six legs in 10 days (5 days faster than Andre Tolme, the man who golfed across Mongolia, completed the exact same section). My feet were free of blisters and I had only a few minor aches and pains. If I had continued my pace I could have finished in 70 days (30 faster than planned) and been home my mid August.
Logistically everything was also going well. There was a greater variety of food available in stores than expected. Equipment was holding up and my maps were proving to be very accurate. I was passing 20-25 gers (Mongolian tent homes) each day, any one of which could have been a source for food, water, or shelter in an emergency.So why am I home?
Mentally the trip was more difficult than I could have ever imagined. From the very moment I stepped on the plane in Detroit to the moment I stepped off on my return I could not escape the feeling of being hopelessly alone. 6000 miles away from any friend in the world is a mind altering thing to consider. The vastness of the steppe is astonishing. While travelling across it I experienced good times and bad but without someone to share in the good and console with in the bad I could not help but grow sadder and sadder. Each day as the miles added up I was growing more and more depressed. It was harder to get up in the morning and end my breaks on the trail. My motivation was disappearing.
I consider my time on the steppe the loneliest of my life and something I will never forget. It was a hardship that I had severely overlooked and was grossly unprepared for. I am very grateful to have gotten home safe.
I was very encouraged by the cards and letters I received. I was unable to wait until the dates for opening suggested on the outside of some cards and all had been read within the first week. I would read them all several times. Each one was greatly appreciated. I can not thank you all enough for the support you showed. Without it I would not have gotten nearly as far as I did. I am sorry I let you down.
In this world there are some people who will go their entire lives without really testing themselves. I am proud to say, I am not one of those people.
Jack Cramer

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Imagine if you will a nice spring thunderstorm. The smell of rain is in the air. You curl up next to the fire with a good book and a warm cup a joe. Perhaps you have a nice thick wool blanket draped over your legs, but not too thick. You wouldn't want to get sweaty. The thunder and lightning quickly pass and you are left with the soothing sounds of rain splashing on the roof in rhythm with the soft cracks of the fire. It comforts you into the perfect nights sleep.
Now imagine that same storm on the Mongolian steppe. There is not a tree or shrub in sight. Your tent's roof is the highest point on the terrain for at least a square mile. You were also sure to purchase the metal, highly conductive, aluminum tent poles. None of that cheap fiber glass for you. Your alone without a friend for thousands of miles except perhaps for the thin layer of nylon that separates you from the torrential rains. Sure it is still making those same soothing sounds but you can't sleep because you throwing you body against the tent walls in hopes of supporting the poles so they don't snap like dry spaghetti. Instead of snoring and sweet dreams you spend the night contemplating the effect of 10,000 volts on the human body.
Imagine these two scenes and you will have a hint of why I'm home early.

1 comment:

rhaglen said...

I am astonished by your blog and your courage! I think not a lot of people will have the courage to admit they have those emotions of depression, loneliness and fear that you so vividly write about. Most people would want to present only the awesomeness of what they did to the outside world, not what they really felt. Good for you!