Jack's Home !!!

See photo's and letter below

Kathie and I are very pleased Jack made the decision to come home.

Jack's home

To my family and friends,

I have made the decision to abandon my travels in Mongolia. In my life I have faced many challenges including climbing Kilimanjaro, living with Chencho amongst the sea turtles in Panama, and my recent semester in Patagonia, but none of these trials compared to the hardships I faced in Mongolia

In many aspects the trip was going very well. Physically I was in good shape. I was averaging over 30 km a day. The man whose home I stayed at in Ulaan Bataar, Bolod, said this was more than most tourists do in a full day of horseback riding. I had completed the first of six legs in 10 days (5 days faster than Andre Tolme, the man who golfed across Mongolia, completed the exact same section). My feet were free of blisters and I had only a few minor aches and pains. If I had continued my pace I could have finished in 70 days (30 faster than planned) and been home my mid August.

Logistically everything was also going well. There was a greater variety of food available in stores than expected. Equipment was holding up and my maps were proving to be very accurate. I was passing 20-25 gers (Mongolian tent homes) each day, any one of which could have been a source for food, water, or shelter in an emergency.So why am I home?

Mentally the trip was more difficult than I could have ever imagined. From the very moment I stepped on the plane in Detroit to the moment I stepped off on my return I could not escape the feeling of being hopelessly alone. 6000 miles away from any friend in the world is a mind altering thing to consider. The vastness of the steppe is astonishing. While travelling across it I experienced good times and bad but without someone to share in the good and console with in the bad I could not help but grow sadder and sadder. Each day as the miles added up I was growing more and more depressed. It was harder to get up in the morning and end my breaks on the trail. My motivation was disappearing.

I consider my time on the steppe the loneliest of my life and something I will never forget. It was a hardship that I had severely overlooked and was grossly unprepared for. I am very grateful to have gotten home safe.

I was very encouraged by the cards and letters I received. I was unable to wait until the dates for opening suggested on the outside of some cards and all had been read within the first week. I would read them all several times. Each one was greatly appreciated. I can not thank you all enough for the support you showed. Without it I would not have gotten nearly as far as I did. I am sorry I let you down.

In this world there are some people who will go their entire lives without really testing themselves. I am proud to say, I am not one of those people.

Jack Cramer

________________________________________________________________

Imagine if you will a nice spring thunderstorm. The smell of rain is in the air. You curl up next to the fire with a good book and a warm cup a joe. Perhaps you have a nice thick wool blanket draped over your legs, but not too thick. You wouldn't want to get sweaty. The thunder and lightning quickly pass and you are left with the soothing sounds of rain splashing on the roof in rhythm with the soft cracks of the fire. It comforts you into the perfect nights sleep.

Now imagine that same storm on the Mongolian steppe. There is not a tree or shrub in sight. Your tent's roof is the highest point on the terrain for at least a square mile. You were also sure to purchase the metal, highly conductive, aluminum tent poles. None of that cheap fiber glass for you. Your alone without a friend for thousands of miles except perhaps for the thin layer of nylon that separates you from the torrential rains. Sure it is still making those same soothing sounds but you can't sleep because you throwing you body against the tent walls in hopes of supporting the poles so they don't snap like dry spaghetti. Instead of snoring and sweet dreams you spend the night contemplating the effect of 10,000 volts on the human body.

Imagine these two scenes and you will have a hint of why I'm home early.

monday june 16

Mom and Pop,

I've made it into Ondorhaan safe and ahead of schedule (10 vs. 15 days). Travel so far has been monotonous. Each day I walk along the open steppe with the Kherlen Gol, a meandering river, on my left. I usually pick a point on the distant horizon and spend the next few hours walking towards it. It is very hot and the lack of clouds is upsetting. All around me is green with specks of brown, black, and white (horses or cows).

The Mongolians have been polite and inquisitive. The 6 or 7 I run into a day are usually able to understand that my names is Jack, I am 20 years old, I am Canadian (I lie to them to avoid prevent robbery which has been more of a threat than I thought, ill tell you the story when i get home), and that I am walking from Choibalsan to Ondorhaan. At this point they tell me to get a motorcycle... Some are on foot, others on motorcycles, but most are on horseback. The horses are small in stature but large in spirit.

One boy who led me to clean water one day regaled me with a billowing Mongolian song I didn't understand a word of. I in turn confused him equally with a lyrical rendition of Pearl Jam's "Elderly Woman Behind the Counter in a Small Town". That's all i do all day mostly, sing and think. I think about back home, about how lonely I am, and about how stupid it was to come to Mongolia in the first place. The country I hoped would be filled with adventure and excitement instead is filled with poop, garbage, and rotting animal carcasses.

In the last day I have covered 25 miles in 14 hours in order to get into Ondorhaan early for some much needed food and relaxation. I had to fight some strong winds which quickly became a sandstorm. The situation reminded me a lot of that day on the pier in grand haven when Ashley lost her camera. Winds at ~45 mph that were knocking me off balance. The day turned to night as the sun became blocked by the dust and visibility was about half a mile. I wasn't really sure what to do so I just kept walking, relying heavily on the GPS. Sure enough after a few hours struggle the town materialized in front of me. Needless to say I was relieved.

Anyways I hope all is well at home. I will be in touch. On to Ulaan Bataar.

JC

47 19.416 N
110 39.775 E

jack update

friday night I'm in the hospital with kath

distance between the 2 gps points so far---- 83. miles

June 12, Jack called from his satellite phone his favorite sister (only) today on her birthday. He's never called me from Mongolia on my birthday! He is doing OK food is Ok, He hasn't bought a horse yet !!!! He hopes to be in a town in 5 more days. He He says he's pleased with his progress. He gave a new position. 47.47086 N 112.46133 E